Spruce Hill and Cedar Park
Spend a day eating, drinking, wandering and relaxing west of the Schuylkill.
I’VE LIVED IN PHILLY FOR A DECADE NOW always in this part of the city—Spruce Hill, Cedar Park, Squirrel Hill, Kingsessing. With its ample green space, historical character, diversity, laid-back vibe and great food, it feels like home.
But neither Philly residents nor tourists think of West Philadelphia as a dining destination. That's a shame, because this part of town offers some memorable eating. Being overlooked doesn’t bother me—more parking and shorter lines for those of us on this side of the Schuylkill! Despite our relative dearth of chef-driven BYOs west of the U Penn campus, the food culture here is just as vibrant as anywhere else in the city. Here are some of my favorite spots to eat, drink and hang out in my neighborhood.
Homer (left) and Maple Pecan Donuts
Photo by Rebecca Mcalpin
9AM
COFFEE AT DOTTIE’S DONUTS
First things first: caffeine and sugar. The city’s source for vegan donuts opened in a little café just off Baltimore Avenue in 2016. Go for one of Dottie’s overloaded “deluxe” donuts in flavors like espresso buttercream or carrot cake, filled with faux cream cheese frosting and topped with candied pecans.
Quiche at Renata's Kitchen
Photo by Rebecca Mcalpin
10AM
BREAKFAST AT RENATA’S KITCHEN
Baltimore Avenue is lined with worthy coffee shops, diners and all-day cafes, but the menu at Renata’s, with its selection of Middle Eastern–inflected dishes and brunch classics, is my favorite. The quiche platter with salad and roasted potatoes is my go-to, but the ful-based Middle Eastern platter and three-egg shakshuka with pita are also delicious.
12:30PM
TOFU HOAGIES FROM FU WAH
Head west on Baltimore to 47th Street, one of the most vibrant, bustling intersections in Cedar Park. There, you’ll find Fu Wah, a mainstay since 1982. I recommend the shop’s iconic tofu hoagie, their vegan banh mi featuring sweet-spicy tofu, pickled radish and carrot, cilantro and jalapeños in a sandwich roll—then bring it to the park.
Photo by J. Fusco for GPTMC
1PM
ROAM AND RELAX AT CLARK PARK
This unofficial gateway to West Philly is a common space like no other in the neighborhood. Folks set up volleyball matches, soccer games and chess matches. Drum circles, singing groups, dog walkers and kids coexist peacefully. On Saturdays from 10am until 2pm year-round, a huge farmers’ market takes over 43rd Street between Baltimore and Chester.
Photo courtesy of Lil'pop Shop
2:30PM
SWEETS AT LIL’ POP SHOP
From the park, head a few blocks north to 44th Street for a sweet pick-me-up. Get midday dessert at this tiny frozen treat spot, which offers popsicles in flavors like Earl Grey black pepper, avocado coconut and chocolate salted caramel brownie.
Photo courtesy of The Bottle Shop
3PM
BOTTLE SHOP AT LOCAL 44 FOR TAKEOUT BEER AND WINE
Just down the block at the corner of 44th and Spruce is neighborhood gastropub Local 44 and its sister bottle shop, which is stocked with all manner of craft beer, cider and specialty wine from near and far. You may want to grab a bottle for later— something that will pair well with sweet-spicy- savory flavors.
Photo by Mtruchon stock.adobe.com
3:30PM
SPRUCE HILL BIRD SANCTUARY
This gem of a green space is hidden amid the backyards of Spruce Hill’s stately Victorian rowhomes. Go east on 44th to Locust Street, then head west, past 45th Street, and turn south on Melville. Head into the narrow alleyway between 233 South Melville Street and a white garage and look for the sign. You’ll be able to hang out—there’s plenty of seating—and watch the birds at their feeders in this tucked-away urban oasis.
Photo by Rebecca Mcalpin
4PM
SECOND MILE CENTER FOR THRIFT SHOPPING
Head back to 45th Street between Locust and Walnut. You’re bound to find all kinds of interesting bargains here. Think: Furniture, housewares, clothing, and other unpredictable treasures.
Photo courtesy of Dock Street Cannery
5PM
COCKTAIL AT DOCK STREET CANNERY
Last year, Dock Street added a canning line and lounge right around the corner from its pub and pizzeria on 50th Street. The new spot specializes in cocktails made with local spirits and Dock Street’s own beer.
Photo by Rebecca Mcalpin
6PM
SHOPPING AT VIX EMPORIUM
This shop features gifts, jewelry, and other goods made by local artists, with a special emphasis on West Philly–themed items like baby onesies, T-shirts and prints made by the owners. Browse jewelry made from crocheted gold mesh, SEPTA tokens, handmade ceramics and more.
7PM
CHILL OUT IN CEDAR PARK
This part of West Philly is known not only for its Victorian architecture, but also for its green spaces. Kids can run amok on the playground at Cedar Park, while grownups can chill out on benches and people-watch. On Friday evenings from June through August, the whole neighborhood takes over the space for the Cedar Park Live Jazz concert series.
Chicken Satay at Vientiane
Photo by Rebecca Mcalpin
8PM
DINNER AND DESSERT AT VIENTIANE
This Lao-Thai BYO opened more than 15 years ago, when owner and chef Daovy Phanthavong and her family started serving curry and pad Thai in a backyard under a blue tarp. Now, their bustling restaurant on the 4700 block of Baltimore is a neighborhood mainstay. Pop your bottle and order up some chicken skewers and crazy pineapple fried rice, or try Laotian specialties like bamboo stew, barbecued Cornish hen and deep-fried whole catfish.
10PM
CITYWIDES AND KARAOKE AT DAHLAK
Finish your evening at Dahlak Paradise, an Ethiopian restaurant/dive bar. Grab your drinks and head outdoors to the patio or go to the dining room to enjoy karaoke, dancing, live music or an open-mike jam late into the night.
