Philadelphia’s Chinatown in a Day
BEFORE COVID, Philadelphia’s Chinatown was on the verge of a renaissance. Many of the classic American Chinese eateries your parents lauded had said farewell. In their place were noodle houses, bubble tea hangouts, and a bevy of nightlife options that brought new life to a neighborhood often known for holding fast to tradition.
Then Covid-19 came, and the people stopped coming. Gone were the Instagram pictures of soup dumplings and the sounds of karaoke deep into the night. I grew up in Chinatown, and seeing it struggle was heartbreaking.
But we’ve entered a new year—and each new year brings with it new fortune and a chance to be prosperous. So let’s take a tour and see what’s cooking today. If you’ve been away from Chinatown for a while, this spring is the perfect time to come back.
9AM
PASTRIES AT BREAD TOP HOUSE
Mornings are always better with the smell of fresh baked goods permeating the air. Pork buns. Coffee rolls. Sponge cake. Sesame balls. When you walk into Bread Top House, you’re met with a display of eye candy that fills every inch of their storefront. My regular go-to is an egg custard tart with a hot milk tea. Don’t be afraid to experiment; you won’t want to miss out Asian flavors like lotus seed, taro, and red bean paste.
Congee at Ting Wong
10AM
CONGEE AT TING WONG
If you’re searching for something savory, may I introduce you to congee? Pronounced “jook’’ in Cantonese, it’s basically rice porridge with a wide variety of toppings, and no one does it better than Ting Wong. Make sure you order your congee with youtiao, a long, golden-brown deep-fried strip of dough that’s perfectly suited to complement this Cantonese comfort food.
12PM
DIM SUM AT DIM SUM GARDEN
There is probably nothing more synonymous with lunchtime in Chinatown than dim sum. Served off of pushcarts or made to order, dim sum is a medley of small plates, each more mouthwatering than the last. Over at Dim Sum Garden, you can enjoy this feast at all hours of the day. This spot is known primarily for their “soup dumplings,” and one serving is never enough. Pair those bundles of joy with different fillings, order them pan fried and feel free to take the advice of your server and experiment a little. Oh, and if you get the spicy shrimp dumplings, order a glass of milk to temper their heat.
Dim Sum
2PM
HISTORY OF CHINATOWN MURAL AND ASIAN FRESH GROCERY
I can’t fully immerse you in Chinatown’s present without celebrating the struggles we’ve had to overcome in the past, including husbands leaving their wives and children to go to California for the gold rush only to find they weren’t allowed to participate. Many of those people took jobs no one else wanted, including working in the railroads and ironing clothes. You see images of this in the “History of Chinatown” mural, created in 1994 by mixed media visual artist Arturo Ho. The artwork is often overlooked because it stands at the edge of the neighborhood across from the Vine Street Expressway. Give yourself a moment to see how Chinatown has already overcome so much,
And what good is exploring a new destination without taking something with you? The two-story Asian Fresh supermarket was once home to the oldest restaurant in Chinatown, Imperial Inn, but it is now overflowing with aisles of Asian fruits and vegetables. Upstairs is where you’ll find the real treasures—a trove of sauces, spices, and snacks perfect for reminiscing about your trip to Philadelphia’s cultural gem.
Mr. Wish
5PM
MR. WISH
Although the name might sound confusing, Mr. Wish, a tea and juice bar, sells the perfect blends of fruit and tea to cleanse the palate right before dinnertime. Bright, bold colors greet you inside, and the counters are stacked with crates of oranges, mangos and other aromatic fruits—all of which help add to that sensory experience as you’re busy slurping up the last bits of fresh pulp and boba from the bottom of your cup. Feel adventurous? Order a lychee and passion fruit boba. Your tastebuds will thank you.
8PM
NINE TING
Dining out in 2021 is a celebration, and in Chinese culture, celebrations between friends and family are done over hot pot. Call it “Asian fondue,” but instead of chocolate and cheese, you’re dipping your food into a seasoned broth that bursts with umami. When dining at Nine Ting, you can choose to just do hot pot or go all out and have some Korean barbecue as well. There is something to be said about the smell of grilled meats wafting in the air like a sweet perfume.
10 PM
HOP SING LAUNDROMAT
This speakeasy-style cocktail bar is located at 1029 Race Street, but there are no signs. No standing. No pictures. What is allowed is an indulgence of the finest liquor and spirits in Philadelphia. (At least that’s what my wife says; I’m always busy asking for their flavorful mocktails.) Maybe it’s the addition of the fresh-squeezed juice or the beautiful presentation in a glass, but a good nonalcoholic drink in a sea of cocktails is hard to find. There’s a reason people stand outside waiting to go in. And that was before 2020 became “2020.” One more thing: Come dressed to impress . . . if you want to get past the gate.
Hop Sing Laundromat
Your Day at A Glance
Bread Top House
1041 Race St.
215.925.3802
(takeout only)
Ting Wong Restaurant
138 North 10th St.
215.928.1883
(takeout only)
Dim Sum Garden
1020 Race St.
215.873.0258
dimsumgardenphilly.com
(Indoor dining available)
History of Chinatown Mural Corner of 10th St. and Winter St.
AsianFresh Supermarket
142—144 N 10th St.
215.876.6578
Mr. Wish
216 N 10th St.
267.457.2650
mrwishusa.com
(Takeout only)
NineTing
926-928 Race St.
215.238.9996
ninetingpa.com
(indoor dining available)
Hop Sing Laundromat
1029 Race St.
hospinglaudromat.com
(Check social media for updates)
CHINATOWN, DELIVERED
If you prefer having dinner brought to your door, try Chowbus, a food delivery app that specializes in Chinese restaurants. You won’t find big chains, just mom-and-pop Asian restaurants like Mr. Wish and Dim Sum Garden. Check it out at chowbus.com.
