Mark McKinney Puts Vegetables in the Spotlight at Primary Plant Based
MARK MCKINNEY, 51, MAY BE BEST KNOWN as the longtime chef for the restaurant group behind Royal Tavern, Cantina Los Caballitos, Khyber Pass Pub and Triangle Tavern, where he worked for 16 years. These neighborhood spots are beloved for menus stacked with bar food favorites like deep-fried wings and loaded nachos in both vegan and meaty versions. But amid the pandemic, McKinney took a fresh look at his life, health and career and made some dramatic changes on all fronts.
Today, the chef is laying down new roots as chef-owner of Primary Plant Based, a buzzy vegan restaurant that officially opened its doors in Fishtown in November of 2021. It started as a pandemic- era popup McKinney ran in addition to his full-time job with the restaurant group. And when Primary Plant Based became a full-fledged restaurant, it quickly became an in-demand reservation for vegans and omnivores alike. McKinney and his team throw down bold plant-based fare that smashes stereotypes about vegan food.
SUCCESS IN SPITE OF STRESS
Opening a restaurant at any time can be harrowing, but the additional stressors of the pandemic made finding a location, planning a menu, sourcing ingredients and hiring and training a team even more challenging than usual. But, for an industry veteran like McKinney, it was like any other endeavor in the biz: you dive in and get the work done.
“Operating in the thick of the pandemic is extremely stressful,” says McKinney. The to-do list is long, and the pressure to get everything right is intense. He adds, “Attempting to keep coworkers safe and comfortable with their working conditions is very important.” McKinney would never ask anyone to work if they didn’t feel good about their work environment. That’s a laudable attitude that can be tough to maintain when you’re opening a restaurant in the midst of a historic labor shortage.
The pandemic threw the entire restaurant business into turmoil in March of 2020, leaving many diners reluctant to dine out even when restrictions were relaxed. The arrival of Omicron late last year didn’t help. McKinney shifted Primary back to take-out only for an agonizing time during the winter, leaving the dining room distressingly empty.
“Our concept is heavily based on the guest experience and good table service,” says the chef. He notes that everyone at the restaurant thrives on guest interaction. “To remove that aspect from our operations is heartbreaking.” Still, for McKinney, safety to the community always comes first.
“When I first went vegan, I did it for the animals. But now I see how following a wholesome, plant-based diet is also beneficial to one’s health and the environment.”
DOING IT HIS WAY
McKinney is no stranger to the restaurant scene in Philadelphia. He’s been working in restaurants here since age 22, when he started as a dishwasher. With a longtime presence and a solid reputation for plant-based cooking in particular, McKinney forged ahead with his new business, even amid the struggle of the pandemic. His long-term goal was always to establish a plant-based restaurant where his own passion for cooking beautiful and seasonal vegetables would stir excitement in the food community.
At Primary, McKinney is having fun because he can finally cook whatever he wants to cook. For the first time in his career, he is his own boss. “I make foods that I love to eat, and I want to share it with everyone who dines with us,” McKinney explains. Cooking is something of a Zen moment for him. Getting creative in the kitchen is one part of the job of a restaurateur that is a true stress reliever for him.
He’s been a vegan for more than thirty years. “When I first went vegan, I did it for the animals. But now I see how following a wholesome, plant-based diet is also beneficial to one’s health and the environment.” It shows in his menu. His dishes are vegetable-forward and generally healthy. He strives for sustainability and uses as many local ingredients as possible. McKinney and his entire team are well-connected to many food purveyors, and they know how to get the best of what is seasonal and local.
This focus on local ingredients means that Primary’s menu changes with the seasons and availability of ingredients. “It’s easy working with people you know. You are aware of how they make their products, and you can pronounce the ingredients they use.” Among McKinney’s favorites are Scoop DeVille (delicious ice cream, now making vegan options) and Baker Street Bread Company, the Germantown Avenue bakery.
GETTING HEALTHY
During the early days of the pandemic, like many Americans, McKinney packed on the pounds. Working too much and trying to balance work, family and school for his children was a lot. He took a look at his diet and decided to clean it up by adding more greens, grains and beans to his plate, and keeping a keen eye on his caloric intake. He also decided to stop drinking alcohol and eating processed foods.
“My weight loss is a result of not getting most of my calories through beer. I drank about 12 bottles of beer a day. Remove the booze, and now I just focus on the overall balance of my diet. I will eat cake and ice cream, but I balance it by having days with no sweet treats and huge plates of steamed vegetables and chili oil,” he says.
Almost two years later, a sober life and more wholesome plates have resulted in a 97-pound weight loss. Not only has he lost the weight, but he has also maintained his weight loss for more than a year.
WHOLESOME FOODS, BIG FLAVORS
McKinney’s new lease on life has clearly informed the menu at Primary Plant Based. “We don’t have a fryer in the kitchen, and I do not use any mock-meats.” He notes that if he added seitan to the menu, he’d make his own to create braised dishes, sausages and crumbled meat substitutes. “I don’t want to be blowing your palate with processed foods,” says McKinney.
And he doesn’t. The menu’s big flavors come from McKinney’s understanding of cooking vegetables. He’ll become inspired by a simple ingredient, then create a recipe he hopes will blow diners’ minds.
One example? Primary’s Mushroom and Eggplant Umami Burger, which quickly gained media attention and a reputation as a must-have dish. Filled with a mushroom chimichurri, chayote pickles, vegan gouda and a smoked eggplant remoulade, it often makes diners question its vegan-ness. People travel from all over the region to taste this now-famous entree. No surprise, since mushrooms are McKinney’s favorite vegetable.
What’s McKinney’s take a few months into his first solo adventure as a chef and restaurateur? “You work a lot—and cross your fingers, hoping that everything will pay off in the end. You’re financially poor, but emotionally rich,” he says.
A father of two, McKinney wants his children to see that he has worked long and hard hours to create a successful business. He wants Primary Plant Based to thrive. While stress is part of the restaurant equation, McKinney believes it’s important to love what you do every day.
For McKinney, being able to put his life’s work into his own restaurant, at last, is priceless. “It’s stress every second, but I really love what I do.”
PRIMARY PLANT BASED
161 W. Girard Ave.
267.360.2305
primaryplantbased.com
