For better or worse, nothing defines Philly food identity like our sandwiches. Whether you’re team cheesesteak or team roast pork, we take sandwiches seriously here. And now, food writer Mike Madaio is telling the whole delicious story in his new book, A History of Philadelphia Sandwiches: Steaks, Hoagies, Iconic Eateries & More.

Madaio, a longtime food journalist, digs into the origins of Philly’s most beloved sandwiches, like the corner deli hoagies that fuel our lunch breaks and the South Philly steak shops that keep the late-night crowds satisfied. For the record, he’s personally a roast pork guy.

Of course, the heavy hitters are here—Pat’s and Geno’s, DiNic’s, John’s Roast Pork—but what makes this book special is the way it also tells the history of lesser-known gems of the city. For example: the salmon cheesesteak. It’s a seared and grill-chopped salmon filet served on a roll with melted American cheese. “And more vegetables than you would think,” says Madaio. His favorite salmon cheesesteaks include broccoli, spinach, peppers, and onions.

More than just a foodie’s guide, this book is a love letter to the immigrant communities and culinary innovators who made Philly’s sandwich scene what it is today. Madaio chronicles how immigrants have taken the cheesesteak global: Ethiopian versions are spicy with berbere and Indian takes are warm and fragrant with curry powder. “It’s the stories and culture behind the sandwiches that I most enjoy exploring,” he says.

• A History of Philadelphia Sandwiches: Steaks, Hoagies, Iconic Eateries & More. (The History Press), $23.99, available at lifeattable.com