THE HUMAN EYE HAS A FANCY FOR ALL THINGS GOLD. Some of the most precious can be found in garden, field, and forest.
On the hottest day of summer, Sungolds polka-dot the green vines of my tomato field. Hands leathered green from tomato sap, I pluck the Sungolds from the calyx and fill my bin until it’s brimming. The Sungolds shine back up at me like the glowing suitcase in Pulp Fiction. I do my best John Travolta twist, one good enough to win Uma Thurman that trophy.
I snap out of it and portion off a pint for my dinner tonight. That’s enough nightshades for today, I think.
On my ride home, I take the scenic route through the ravine. The tight two-lane paved road meanders with the stream that has shaped it for centuries. A pleasurable drive. The road bows and carves beside the stream, inviting quick acceleration and hard braking through turns that hug the stream.
At this time of day, the south side of the ravine burns with late-evening glow. Schist glimmers back and dances in my eyes, a geologic disco ball. The north side of the ravine stands statured with grand oaks and beeches that provide shade and humidity. My attention is diverted from the dancing schist and quickly captured by gold patches spotting the green ferns and brown leafy masses. I know what grows in the shade like that.
I slow down and pull off onto the gravel turnout. The tires crunch to a halt and I reach around for a bag. This red Wawa bag will do. I hop the guardrail and duck beneath an old felled birch, which gives access to the hillside where I saw them. I then make my way to the gold.
I squat down like a prospector with his pan but instead I fill my bag, leaving plenty behind, and head back to my truck. I place the mushrooms in the cab beside the pint of Sungolds and dream of dinner tonight. A quick score for taking the long way home.
Sungold and Chanterelle Pizza
Ingredients
FOR THE JIMMY NARDELLO PESTO
- 1 Jimmy Nardello pepper
- 2 cups loosely packed fresh basil leaves
- ¼ cup black walnuts
- 1–2 garlic cloves
- ¼ cup grated Birchrun Hills Farm Equinox cheese
- 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE PIZZA
- 1 ball pizza dough (about 1 lb)
- Bolted hard wheat flour, for dusting
- 1 pint Sungold tomatoes, halved
- A handful (about 4 oz) chanterelles, torn into bite-size pieces
- Equinox cheese, for grating
- Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Instructions
MAKE THE PESTO
- Char the Jimmy Nardello directly over a gas burner (or under the broiler), turning, until blackened and soft, about 3 to 5 minutes. In a food processor, combine the basil, charred pepper, walnuts, garlic, and grated cheese. Pulse to a coarse paste, then, with the motor running, stream in the olive oil until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
MAKE THE PIZZA
- Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and place a pizza stone (or an inverted sheet tray) on it. Heat the oven as high as it will go, usually 500 to 550°F.
- Halve the Sungold tomatoes into moons and tear the chanterelles into bite-size pieces. On a flour-dusted pizza peel or sheet tray, stretch the dough into a round.
- Spread the pesto over the dough, leaving a border for the crust. Nestle in the tomatoes and scatter the chanterelles, pressing them lightly into the pesto.
- Bake until the crust is golden and crisp, about 8 to 12 minutes.
- Finish with a grating of Equinox and a drizzle of olive oil. Slice and serve.
